On the lapel of every truly exceptional suit, there is a small detail that separates the ordinary from the extraordinary. It is not a logo. It is not a label. It is a single, hand-stitched buttonhole known as the Milanese buttonhole, and to those who know, it speaks louder than any brand name ever could.

For discerning gentlemen searching for bespoke tailors in Jakarta, understanding this quiet hallmark of craftsmanship is the first step toward owning a garment that is truly your own. At Laxmi Bespoke Tailor, we have been hand-stitching this storied detail for our clients since 1949, and in this guide, we will show you exactly what makes it so coveted.

What Is a Milanese Buttonhole?

The Milanese buttonhole (sometimes called asola lucida, which means “shiny buttonhole” in Italian) is a hand-finished buttonhole technique that originated in the elite tailoring houses of Milan, Italy. Unlike the flat, machine-stitched buttonholes found on virtually every off-the-rack suit and most made-to-measure garments, a Milanese buttonhole is sculpted entirely by hand, layer upon layer, until it takes on a soft, three-dimensional, silk-like sheen.

It is, without exaggeration, one of the most labour-intensive details in all of menswear. A single Milanese buttonhole takes our master tailors at Laxmi a full working day to complete properly. It cannot be rushed. It cannot be faked. And once you have seen one up close, you will never look at a machine-made buttonhole the same way again.

This is why, in the world of bespoke suits, the Milanese buttonhole is regarded as a quiet signature of the highest level of craftsmanship, the same level our atelier has been delivering for over seven decades.

A Brief History: From Milan to Jakarta

The technique was perfected in the post-war ateliers of Milan, where master tailors competed not on volume but on the smallest, most refined details. In the heyday of European tailoring, a gentleman’s tailor would be judged by the way he finished his lapel buttonhole, the one detail visible to the world, sitting proudly on the chest.

Today, only a handful of bespoke tailors worldwide still execute the Milanese buttonhole in its true, traditional form. Most “handmade” buttonholes you will encounter, even on expensive suits, are in fact simpler hand-stitched versions. The real Milanese, sculpted, raised, and finished with that distinctive sheen, requires years of training and a steady, patient hand.

At Laxmi, our master tailors have carried this technique across generations. Since opening our doors in 1949, we have built our reputation as Jakarta’s heritage bespoke tailor, dressing diplomats, executives, and discerning gentlemen who understand that true elegance lives in details others miss.

How a Milanese Buttonhole Is Made: Inside the Laxmi Atelier

To appreciate why this single detail commands such reverence, and why it is offered exclusively as an add-on for our bespoke suit Jakarta clientele, let us walk you through what really happens at our cutting table.

Step 1: Cutting the Slot

The buttonhole begins not with thread, but with a precise cut. Using a specialized chisel-like tool, our master tailor cuts a perfectly straight slot through the lapel canvas and outer fabric. There is no margin for error. A single millimetre off, and the entire lapel must be replaced.

Step 2: Building the Gimp Core

Beneath the visible stitching lies a hidden core called the gimp, a thick, waxed cord that gives the Milanese buttonhole its signature raised, three-dimensional profile. This gimp is laid by hand around the slot and anchored with tiny, invisible stitches that will never see the light of day, but which determine the buttonhole’s final shape and life expectancy.

Step 3: Hand-Stitching with Silk

Now comes the work that defines the Milanese: hundreds of tiny, perfectly uniform purl stitches, executed in fine silk thread, wrapped tightly around the gimp core. Each stitch must mirror the one before it. Each must be pulled with exactly the same tension. The thread is finer than ordinary suit thread, and the silk gives the finished buttonhole its hallmark luminous sheen.

A trained eye can tell within seconds whether a buttonhole has been made by a true master or merely by a competent hand. The rhythm of the stitches, the consistency of the curve at the “eye” of the hole, the way the silk catches the light: these are the marks of decades of practice.

Step 4: Finishing and Pressing

The finished buttonhole is gently pressed and shaped. When it is done, it should sit proud of the lapel, slightly raised, perfectly oval at the eye, and softly gleaming in natural light. It is, quite literally, sculpture on a lapel.

This entire process takes one full day per buttonhole. It is the reason we offer the Milanese as a premium add-on rather than a standard inclusion, and the reason our clients who choose it understand exactly what they are receiving.

Why the Milanese Buttonhole Matters

You might fairly ask: if no one but the wearer (and perhaps a fellow connoisseur) will ever notice, why does it matter?

The answer is the same answer that defines bespoke tailoring itself.

1. It Is the Mark of a True Bespoke Garment

You will not find a Milanese buttonhole on a factory suit. You will not find one on most made-to-measure suits either. It exists almost exclusively in the realm of true bespoke tailoring, garments cut from scratch to the individual client’s measurements and finished by hand. Discover more about our process on our Bespoke Journey page. When you wear a suit with a hand-stitched Milanese, you are wearing proof of craftsmanship that no mass-market label can replicate.

2. It Speaks Without Speaking

The Milanese buttonhole is the antithesis of a logo. It is invisible to the casual observer and unmistakable to those who know. For the gentleman who finds loud branding distasteful, who prefers his quality to whisper rather than shout, there is no more elegant signature.

3. It Lasts a Lifetime

Machine buttonholes fray, distort, and lose their shape with age. A properly executed Milanese buttonhole, built around a gimp core and stitched in silk, remains crisp and beautiful for decades. We have repaired and refreshed suits made by our own atelier from twenty, thirty, even forty years ago through our alterations service, and the buttonholes are still standing proud.

4. It Anchors the Lapel

There is a structural benefit too. The dense, hand-built construction of a Milanese reinforces the lapel itself, helping the suit hold its silhouette through years of wear, dry cleaning, and travel. This is craftsmanship that earns its keep.

The Milanese Buttonhole and the Laxmi Bespoke Experience

At Laxmi, every garment begins with a conversation. Whether you are commissioning your first bespoke suit, building a complete business wardrobe, or preparing for the most important day of your life, the Milanese buttonhole is one of many choices we will guide you through.

We offer it as a premium add-on on our full bespoke commissions, including:

• Bespoke Suits. Two-piece, three-piece, and double-breasted bespoke suits cut entirely to your measurements.
• Bespoke Shirts. Hand-finished bespoke shirts in cottons, linens, and silks, tailored to the millimetre.
• Bespoke Trousers. Bespoke trousers cut for the way you actually stand, sit, and move.
• Tuxedos and Wedding Suits. Black tie and wedding suit Jakarta commissions, where a hand-stitched Milanese on the lapel is the ultimate finishing touch.
• Wedding Tuxedos. For grooms who want their once-in-a-lifetime garment to carry once-in-a-lifetime detail.
• Blazers and Jackets. Bespoke outerwear built to last decades.
• Company Uniforms. Tailored corporate wardrobes for businesses that understand the value of first impressions.

For a groom planning a wedding tuxedo or wedding suit in Jakarta, the Milanese buttonhole holds particular meaning. It is the detail that transforms a beautiful suit into an heirloom, something your future self, and perhaps your son, will look at decades from now and recognize as the work of a master

What Makes Laxmi Different Among Bespoke Tailors in Jakarta

The market for custom tailors in Jakarta has grown rapidly in recent years. New ateliers open, slick websites launch, and many promise the bespoke experience at attractive prices. We welcome the competition. It means more gentlemen are discovering the joy of properly tailored clothing.

But the test of a true bespoke tailor is not what they promise. It is what they can actually execute on the cutting table, and what details they are willing to hand-finish even when no one is watching.

Here is what 77 years of experience has taught us:

• Capable of fully handmade construction  When you choose our highest tier of bespoke, every Laxmi garment, whether a suit, a pair of trousers, a shirt, or a wedding tuxedo, can be constructed entirely by hand from the first cut to the final stitch. No fusing. No machine-finished panels hidden under the lining. In an era when even most “premium” tailoring relies on machine assembly, this level of pure handmade tailor work has become increasingly rare and it is the foundation upon which every detail, including the Milanese buttonhole, is built. 
• Heritage matters. Founded in 1949, Laxmi has dressed three generations of Jakarta’s most discerning gentlemen. Our patterns, techniques, and house style have been refined over decades.
• Master tailors, not assemblers. Our craftsmen are not interchangeable. The Milanese buttonhole on your lapel is stitched by a master who has been doing this for years, sometimes decades. This is what separates a handmade tailor from a sewing operation.
• True bespoke, not made-to-measure. Every Laxmi bespoke garment is cut from a paper pattern drafted uniquely for you. Nothing is pulled from a size chart.
• Quiet luxury. No flashy logos, no oversized branding, no fashion statements. Just clean construction, beautiful materials, and details like the Milanese buttonhole that mean something to the people who matter, including yourself.

When clients ask why they should choose Laxmi from among the many tailors in Jakarta, our answer is simple: come visit our atelier. Touch the cloth. Watch our tailors work. Ask to see a Milanese buttonhole in progress. The answer will be in your hands.

A Word for the First-Time Bespoke Client

If this is your first encounter with the world of bespoke suits, you may feel a little overwhelmed. The terminology, the choices, the appointments. Bespoke tailoring is unlike any other shopping experience.

Allow us to make it simple.

You do not need to know about Milanese buttonholes, canvas construction, or surgeon’s cuffs before you walk through our door. You only need to know what you want the suit to do for you, whether that is closing the deal in a boardroom, standing at the altar on your wedding day, or simply owning one truly beautiful thing in your wardrobe.

We will handle the rest. Over a series of fittings, usually three to four, your bespoke suit is built from the cloth up to your exact measurements, posture, and preferences. Along the way, we will offer you choices: lapel width, button stance, lining colour, working cuffs, and yes, a hand-stitched Milanese buttonhole, if you would like to add it.

It is your suit. We are simply the hands that build it.

Visit Laxmi Bespoke Tailor: Eight Ateliers Across Indonesia

For more than seven decades, Laxmi has welcomed clients into our ateliers across Jakarta, Tangerang, and Surabaya. Whether you are commissioning your first bespoke shirt in Jakarta, building a bespoke trouser in Jakarta wardrobe, or planning a complete wedding ensemble, our master tailors are ready to begin the conversation.

Jakarta

• Pecenongan. Jl. Pecenongan No.17B, Kb. Klp., Kec. Gambir, Jakarta Pusat
• Senayan City. Unit 4/52, Jl. Asia Afrika No.19, Gelora, Tanah Abang, Jakarta Pusat
• Kemang. Jl. Kemang Raya No.6 D 11, Bangka, Jakarta Selatan
• Pacific Place. Pacific Place Mall, Jl. Jenderal Sudirman No.66, Senayan, Jakarta Selatan
• TCF Oakwood. Jl. Dr. Ide Anak Agung Gde Agung Blok E4.2 No. 1, Kuningan Tim., Kec. Setiabudi, Jakarta Selatan
• TCF PIM 2. Pondok Indah Mall 2, Unit 241A, Jl. Metro Pondok Indah, Pd. Pinang, Jakarta Selatan

Tangerang

• AEON Mall BSD. Jl. BSD Utama (AEON BSD City Unit 1F-1-42), Pagedangan, Tangerang, Banten 15345

Surabaya

• Ciputra World Surabaya. Ciputra World, No 8, 1st Floor, Mayjen Sungkono Kav 87, Surabaya 60189

Begin Your Bespoke Journey

A bespoke suit from Laxmi is not bought. It is commissioned. It is built. It is, in the truest sense, yours.

If you are ready to experience what 77 years of craftsmanship can do for you, we invite you to book an appointment at the Laxmi atelier nearest you. Bring your questions. Bring your inspiration. And if you wish, ask to see the Milanese buttonhole for yourself.

Your wardrobe will never feel the same again.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a Milanese buttonhole?

A Milanese buttonhole is a hand-finished buttonhole technique originating from the elite tailoring houses of Milan, Italy. It is sculpted entirely by hand around a gimp cord using silk thread, creating a three-dimensional, luminous finish that takes a full working day to complete.

How long does it take to make a Milanese buttonhole at Laxmi Bespoke Tailor?

At Laxmi Bespoke Tailor Jakarta, a single Milanese buttonhole takes our master tailors a full working day to complete properly. It is offered as a premium add-on on our full bespoke commissions.

Is the Milanese buttonhole standard on Laxmi bespoke suits?

The Milanese buttonhole is offered as a premium add-on rather than a standard inclusion, due to the intensive handwork required. Clients can request it on any bespoke suit, tuxedo, or wedding suit commission.

Where can I order a bespoke suit with Milanese buttonhole in Jakarta?

Laxmi Bespoke Tailor has six ateliers across Jakarta (Pecenongan, Senayan City, Kemang, Pacific Place, TCF Oakwood, and TCF PIM 2), one in Tangerang (AEON Mall BSD), and one in Surabaya (Ciputra World). Book your consultation via WhatsApp at +62 851-5603-2062.

How long has Laxmi Bespoke Tailor been operating?

Laxmi Bespoke Tailor has been crafting bespoke suits, shirts, and trousers in Jakarta since 1949, making it one of Indonesia’s most established heritage bespoke tailors with over 77 years of experience.