Perfectly Tailored – Putting on a great suit is transformative. Your shoulders are broadened; your lines, longer and leaner; your waist, that much trimmer. You look great, you feel great. That is, assuming you got the right suit and had it properly tailored. As any man who’s spent an evening in a boxy rental knows, there are very few things as good as a great suit. There are—in the sartorial sense at least—fewer things worse than a bad one. Since even a modestly priced off-the-rack number can look like a million bucks with the right nips and tucks, we’re here to help with six essential rules for getting a perfectly tailored suit.

1. Hem Your Trousers

This is the number one place most guys go wrong when it comes to tailored clothing. Even A-List stars—who should know better—have been known to leave things far too long. Though you don’t necessarily need to embrace the ankle-baring aesthetic espoused by designers like Thom Browne, all that extra length isn’t doing anything but making you look shorter and sloppier. Opt for a very small break (the edge of your pants should just brush the tops of your shoes) for a look that’ll stand the test of time, but still feels modern.

2. Make Sure the Shoulders Fit

The shoulders of your suit jacket should feel like they’re hugging your own. If they’re noticeably tight, the jacket is too small. And if the shoulder seams are sagging past the natural line of your body, like they do for all too many workaday types, it’s too big. The shoulders are the one place that even expert tailors are hesitant to mess with: It’s difficult, expensive, and can ruin your suit. Nearly everything else can be altered, but if the shoulders aren’t spot on, it’s time to return it to the rack.

3. Hem Your Sleeves

Slightly less pervasive than the problem of pooling trousers—but no less pernicious—is that of over-long sleeves. Your jacket sleeve should end a quarter-inch to a half-inch before your shirt sleeve does. All the better to show a sliver of cuff. If your jacket sleeve is hitting your knuckles, it’s way too long. This is an easy and cheap fix if the buttons on the cuffs aren’t functional; your tailor will simply trim from the cuff up and then move them. If the cuffs feature working buttons, it’s a bit more labor-intensive and pricey. The sleeve has to be taken up from the shoulder. Still, better than the knuckle-grazing alternative.

4. Watch for Collar Gap

You might not be able to see it, but everyone around you will. The collar of your suit jacket, if not properly fitted to your neck, will sit away from your shirt collar, leaving a gap. This can happen for any number of reasons, and if it’s not too severe, a tailor can usually fix it. But anything more than a small gap can be a problem. Watch out when you’re buying, and unless you’ve got a particularly skilled tailor that you trust completely, steer clear.

5. Take in the Waist of Your Jacket

Many suit jackets are made with a “democratic” cut, which is a nice way of saying they’re designed to accommodate men of a certain girth around the midsection. If you aren’t one of these men, it also means that your jacket will look boxy until you have your tailor take it in at the waist. Don’t get too aggressive about it, though. Remember, you still need to be able to move in the thing. Aim for being able to comfortably fit a closed fist between your jacket and shirt when the top button is closed.

6. Slim the Sleeves and Taper the Trousers

A lot of guys have tuned into the idea that going narrower on the pants is a great way to elongate the lines of a suit and create a tailored silhouette. Take a page from their book and taper your own trousers. One thing you might not have thought of is doing the same for the sleeves of the jacket. It’s a little more complicated because your tailor will have to deal with the lining, but it’ll make for a much more polished look in the long run. So, you know, worth it.

Source : https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a37743/6-rules-for-a-perfectly-tailored-suit/



You never forget your first time. And hopefully it’s unforgettable. Come on, now, I’m talking about your first made to measure suit! My first is still one of my all-time favorites. Here are five tips to help make your first made to measure experience a good one.

Tips For Measure Experience

Keep it classic.

Now that the popularity of menswear in the mainstream has literally exploded and imagery of well-dressed Italian gentlemen abound, it can be tempting to do something wild simply because you see so much of it. Pro tip: don’t do it. Your first made to measure suit should be something you can wear for the rest of your life, not just once in a blue moon. Stick with a classic color like blue or grey and err on the conservative side when it comes to styling.

Have a game plan.

Know what you need and what you want. Take stock of what you have (or don’t have) in your closet and do a little research on a few basic elements of a suit. Notch or peak lapel? Flap or jet pockets? Ticket pocket? Double or single vent? (I’ll answer for you: double vent.) Most made to measure programs have all sorts of items you can customize – buttons, linings, and so on – so having a general idea of some of the basic elements going in will help immensely.

Go to an actual shop.

There are tons of online made to measure suit options these days, some of them decent and some of them a scam. Save yourself a huge potential headache and make alterations a lot quicker and less painful by finding a reputable local program.

Be open to suggestions.

Here’s where going to a brick and mortar as opposed to choosing an online option makes a lot of sense, especially if you’re new to the game and not exactly sure what you want. Chances are the tailor and/or proprietor has been at it for some time and can help guide you to make the best decision.

Be patient.

Made to measure experience suits typically take between six to eight weeks to produce. Don’t expect to get one made for that wedding you’re going to next week. And remember this: everyone asks if their order can be expedited. Don’t be that guy. Be respectful and understanding. And also be aware that once your suit comes in additional alterations will often be required. Some, like a hem are easy fixes and take no time at all, while others, such as tapering a trouser or taking in a jacket require more time. In general, I’d build in an extra week for final delivery once your suit arrives.


How To Pack Your Ties For Travel

When you’re taking a trip that requires you to bring along some neckwear, it’s important to pack your ties well to keep them looking crisp, clean, and unwrinkled. Here’s a quick guide on how to pack your ties for travel.

For maximum protection and organization, I recommend investing in a tie case. Though most tie cases only have straps to secure two ties, it is possible to fit more in the case, if need be. I’ve managed to squeeze four into mine with no problem.

 

If you can find a tie case with a small pocket built in, snatch it up. It’s a great way to keep all your small accessories like tie clips and cuff links in the same place.

If a tie case isn’t in your budget in the near future, here are a couple of other options for packing your ties safely. But be sure to put that tie case on your next birthday/Christmas wish list!

  • Roll them up. Fold the tie once lengthwise, then roll it up tightly, starting with the narrow end. This works best if you’re traveling with aduffle bag rather than a suitcase as it’s easier to find a space where it’s not going to get crushed. And if you don’t have an aversion to putting your neckwear in your shoes, put the rolled up tie in the shoe opening after you’ve finished making your DIY shoe trees.
  • Fold neatly, pack snugly. This was my preferred method before getting a tie case. Fold the tie in thirds – just as illustrated in the second photo – and find the flattest part of your suitcase of bag to pack them. I have four zip compartments in my suitcase that my ties would fit perfectly in.

Brace Yourself: A Guide to Wearing Suspenders – It’s kind of hard to fathom, but believe it or not, the belt is a relatively recent invention. Prior to World War I, the favored method of keeping one’s trousers up was with a pair of suspenders.

Nowadays, suspenders (or braces, as they’re known by the British) are often viewed as a relic from another era and/or emblematic of certain kinds of people or professions – they’re worn by dandies, bankers or iconically by waify punk rockers and hipsters.

However, as we’ve started to shift as a menswear culture towards an appreciation of quality and well-appointed details, suspenders can now be considered just another element in the well-dressed modern gentleman’s sartorial playbook.

how-to-wear-mens-suspenders

Here are some guidelines on how to wearing suspenders:

1. Buttons or Clips?

This is a real “line in the sand” issue for me. Suspenders should be fastened with buttons. Period. End of discussion.

2. Don’t Wear Suspenders with a Belt

Suspenders are a method for keeping your pants up. A belt is another method for keeping your pants up. Don’t ever wear suspenders with a belt (or a belt with suspenders?). It’s the same as wearing a tie bar with a waistcoat. Choose one method or the other. Don’t cross the streams.

3. Are Belt Loops Okay?

Here’s a topic that could incite a lively debate: wearing suspenders (even fastened with buttons) on pants that also have belt loops.

Hardliners will tell you that if you’re wearing suspenders on a pair of pants with belt loops that you’re not all-in. I can respect that.

However, it’s nice to have options. Especially if you’re going to be spending some hard-earned dollars on a Made to Measure suit. Maybe you’d like to style the suit with a belt sometimes, but also reserve the right to wear suspenders when the mood strikes.

4. Proper Adjustment

Suspenders used to come in different sizes/lengths. Now they have adjusters. When dialing in the right length, there’s a balance point between being too loose and too tight – the latter can lead to an uncomfortable tightening of the pants between the buttocks. Ahem.

My advice here is to go by feel. You’ll know when you’ve got them set up properly. Trust me.

5. Mind the Waist Size

Suspenders are best on pants that have a little room in the waist. If your pants are tight – or perfectly fitted to your waist – you don’t need suspenders. Unless, of course, you’re looking to add an unnecessary fashion accessory to your look.

6. A Subtle Accessory

A pair of suspenders is not an accessory that’s meant to be flaunted. Back in the olden days, they were considered a form of underwear – a not-quite unmentionable that wasn’t particularly meant to be seen.

Fans of rubber chicken cuff links may disagree with me here, but when you’re talking about classic elegance, subtlety rules the day (or night).

7. Formalwear

Bookending this post with another “line in the sand” item. When it comes to formalwear, suspenders are de rigueur. A belt with formal attire is a non-starter.